Elvis Elvis Everywhere - Memphis TN and Tupelo MS

Here we are on US 40  heading toward Memphis.  The sky is blue.  We have lost any signs of fall color in the trees.  We do see many cotton fields ready for harvest (looks like a giant dumped his popcorn bucket).    Our main tourist stop is Graceland.  So bright and early we kiss Brady and head to one of the most visited homes in the US.  There is very little navigation required it is pretty well marked.  Surprise, $10.00 parking fee.  There are plenty of places to park not on the complex if you are in the know (we were not).   Graceland is not just Elvis’ Home it is a complex of diners, museums, The Lisa Maria and gift shops.  To tour Graceland estate you board a bus that takes you across the street, through the Iron Gates to the house.  Now this is Tuesday, 9:30 in the morning and we had to wait for three buses before we could cross.  When we finally made it across the street we are all (about 20 of us) herded into the entryway.  We are armed with our head phones and this is the last time today we are made to feel like cattle.  Once inside you are able to take your time and mosie as you see fit.  I maybe have a bit of a different style sense but I didn’t see too much that was over the top 70 design.  I love the house and its personality.  The jungle room didn’t seem as jungley as it could have but it did have an amazing coffee table.  The rest of the rooms can really speak (shout) for themselves.  I loved walking through the offices, and into the racquetball court.  Every out building now holds costumes, gold albums, and memorabilia.   How was Elvis such an Icon?  He was huge before huge was possible.  It was enlightening to see what a big business he is.  After our tour of Graceland was complete we still had Elvis’ car museum, and many more tributes to his career (all with adjacent gift shops) to see.  Our tour was complete when we walked through the “Lisa Marie”  Elvis’ private plane.   This was just a terrific tourist day. 

 

Cotton Field on US 40

Front Living room

The strair to the "no tourist" zone 

Dining Room

The kitchen reminds me of Peninsula Dr

TV Room

Help Jo Ann Fabrics threw up

The Jungle room

Awesome Coffee Table

Desplay

Wall of gold and silver

Percillas dress is still perfect

Show costumes are everywhere

Graceland

The Lisa Marie

Grace land wall is covered with love

The gate

Day two we headed to downtown Memphis and toured the Gibson Guitar Factory (no Pictures). Gibson started in Kalamazoo, MI and started shifting to Memphisfrom 1974 to 1984. It was an honest factory tour. Right from the bulk wood, fusing and molding, carving, painting and playing the finished product. Our tour guide was very agile about not answering questions about recent raids from this government looking for endangered wood. What we saw was a productive environment with very engaged employees making a beautiful American product. 

Gold Notes on Beal Street

If I ever needed proof that fire marshals could be paid off– I have it now. We visited Sun Studios.  The birthplace of Rock ‘n’Roll, the very place Elvis recorded his first song. Sun Studios has purchased the diner on the corner to stack tourist in while we wait for our scheduled tour. We had about an hour wait.We were able to get a couple of stools at the counter.In this crowded joint the few employees were all very upbeat and chatty.To start our tour, about 30 of us climbed narrow stairs to a small room to hear the history of Sun, listen to vintage recordings, see artifacts to prep you for your tour over to the Sun.You then walk down a different set of stairs that opens to the Sun Studios reception room and into the tiny sound stage.This is still a working studio (used in the evenings after tours are done).    Our guide set the stage of a young Elvis recording here, Johnny Cash, Ike Turner and the house piano player Jerry Lee Louis. She played several more recordings that really gave this tour a great historical feel.Looking at the stained ceiling and peeling paint, it is easy to see not much has been changed.Even with so many people crammed in these spaces it was a really informational and fun tour.The highlight was to have your picture taken with the Microphone Elvis and these other greats have used (not sure if I really believe this though). Definitely do not miss this tour sometime in your life.

Music fans everywhere

Jerry Lee Louis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins and Elvis = The Million Dollar Quartet

Marion made sure Elvis' recording was heard

The Sun Reception Office

Oh - If I only could sing

Watch out Brad and Carrie

We finished our Sun tour just in time to catch the free shuttle back to Beal Streetand run to The Peabody to see the Duck Parade. Now the Peabodyis a grand beautiful hotel that has had ducks in the fountain since 1932.The ducks march from the elevator to the fountain at 11:00am and march back to the elevator at 5:00pm (they then spend the rest of their free time at their penthouse pond). At 4:45pm the duck path is packed three deep with Peabodyduck fans (the crowd continues to grow even up to the walkway on the second story. Les and I were both a bit surprised at all of this fowl support. I spied a tiny spot by the elevator and asked the cute older guy if it was ok if I stood there? He was very sweet and gave me his spot. He had seen the parade that morning and was glad to let me get my pictures too (surprise he is a retired vet). The pressure was on. Today was this flocks first day on the job. They were a bit reluctant to leave the fountain. The Duck Master talked some sense into the feathered divas and they did proudly parade past the camera flashes to the safety of their waiting elevator.

Step aside - The ducks are coming

After the drama of the ducks it was time to find the perfect place for dinner. Beal Street is quite a bit like a tiny Burbon Street with many eateries to offer. We settled on the“ Superior Bar and Grill”. They offered great beer Specials, Ribs, Pulled Pork with the fixens. The tips only Singer was great. If we lived in Memphis this would easily be our bar. Now they did not pass our bar mark of Mikes Jones ribs or Grandpa Bobby Lands pulled pork but it was great food.

After visiting Nashville and Memphis we saw a big difference between the two. Nashville seems to be trying to be better and Memphis says accept me the way I am. Both are great towns with tons to do.

All the people must still be stuck inside the Sun Studio

Good use of State resources

The final cherry on our Rockabilly tour is a stop in Tupelo Mississippito Elvis’ birthplace. I stopped here during a cross country drive from Fort Lewis WA to Fort Gordon GAin the early 80’s. At that time you would go in the little house give a sweet old lady a few dollars and toured the house.          The sweet old lady has changed, the little house has not.  However, now there is a museum, chapel, monuments. They have also purchased and moved Elvis’ childhood church onto the property and yes they have a gift shop. We learned that Elvis dad, Vernon went to jail for forging a check, The house went back Vernons employer. His mom Gladys had to take public assistance and through it all Elvis sang in the church and was learning to play the guitar.This is a very grass roots story and experience. Don’t miss the three side film in the little church that dramatizes the Pentecostal church experience. This was such a good natured and touching tour.  How can you miss this for the $9.00 charge?

It is thought that Elvis modeled his look after his favorite comic book character

Family photo, Gladys, Elvis and Vernon

Livingroom / Bedroom

Bedroom / living room

The kitchen

Just two rooms - thats it

So Cute

Elvis' childhood church

Relocated here a couple of years ago

20 OCT 2011

Nashville TN - Perfect in the fall

The next stop on US40 is Nashville.  The clerk at our camp ground was pitching Nashville tours. Why not!?  So the next morning Grey Line picks us and one other couple from our camp ground up.  Turns out our driver was in the music business (we quickly find out most people we will encounter today “are” or “were” in the music industry.  Anyway she easily shares her stories of success, rubbed elbows and politics of the “Billboard” .  We join a bigger group for the City tour (new driver also a musician).  Now tours may seems dorky but we saw so much in  8 hours.  In the morning we saw Fort Nashborough ( a model of the original Nashville).  Nashville has an amazing bicentennial park.  Les and I came back here to take more time with it.  The park is huge.  Granite walls tell about Tennessees time line through history starting with the formation of the earth.  When you stand in the middle you can look one way and see the State Capital high on the hill looking the other way you will see the WW11 Memorial and hear the chimes the sound every 30 minutes.  The farm market is just next to the park.  This would be a very easy place to spend Saturdays.  The day we went back, the park was having a scavenger hunt 5k race.  A very good natured event with very little sweat.

Still on the tour we saw Vanderbilt University (yep the same folks that built that big house in North Carolina), music row and the Parthenon.  The Parthenon is a left over from the 1897 Centennial Expo.  It is a perfect replica of the Athens Parthenon but it is in a whole lot better shape.  Did you know that Nashville is the Athens of the South?        Me either.   On to the Mother Church of Country Music”, The Ryman Auditorium.  This is the original Grand Ol Opry.  This big beautiful church like building still hosts concerts and shows.  The upper level is filled with cases of country memorabilia.  While we were there a band was conducting sound checks and unwittingly creating a perfect tourist atmosphere.  Our stop at the Country Music Hall of Fame was perfect.  Through our tour we had about 2 ½ hours to read, look and listen.  What I noticed most was how many of the same names we saw here and the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.    Some inductees like, Patsy Cline and Elvis but many that laid the ground work for the growth of rock; Jimmie Rodgers, Willie Nelson, Hank Williams, Wanda Jackson for a few.  Also what really surprised me is how much “I” knew about country music.  I spent many evenings watching Hee Haw and the Buck Owens show (when they were first runs { now still available on RFD TV}) with mom and dad.  So many of the tunes and visuals of giant guitars, slicked and poofy hair and sequined everythings bounced back.  Just goes to show good music is good music.

(Fort Nashboro)

( Ye Ole after hours bar) Tootsies

The Parthanon

Ryman (Mother Church)

Aren't these stairs great?

The Ryman

Great old wall

Wall of gold at the Country Music Hall of Fame

Hall of fame Hall

Spring of 2010 the Grand Ole Opry was flooded like most of the Nashville area.The building was holding standing water of over 5 foot.You would never know it to see it now.Remodeled and perfect, Nashville shows what can happen if you don’t whine for government help and just fix it yourself.Our tour was a back stage pass (not during a show though).We were shown the star and VIP entrance, check in area and the stars mail boxes.Did you know that if you were to write a“fan” letter to a country star, send it to the Grand Ole Opry, the Opry would put it in their mail box?To me that was a “No Shit” moment.We got to see the dressing rooms, the green room (called the family room at the Opry).The sound stage where many TV shows and specials are recorded (to include HeeHaw). Then we got to go on stage.The circle of wood in the middle of the stage has been brought from the Ryman Auditorium.The spirit is to always have the roots of country music present (pretty cool).Just next door is the Gaylord Opryland Hotel.Les and I have been to Las Vegas many times and love the over the top explosion of design. Nothing in Vegas can compare with this hotel.It is a 9 acre, classical southern resort that holds an exotic tropical garden. The arboretum has several water falls, fountains, bridges, a 12,500 sq foot lake.We took a 20 minute river boat ride through caves and villages you wouldn’t see if you weren’t in the boat.Yes all this is inside.The ceiling is made up of 100s of glass panels each is 3 inches thick, strong enough to stand up against golf ball hail.Here’s a neat tidbit.The river water is a collection of water from 1700 spots around the world. The hotel also has 650 WSM a 50,000 Watt am Country radio station.There is just so much beauty and spirit here.The hotel was also flooded with 10 foot of Cumberland River water in 2010.The owner ( this is a family owned hotel) hired 90% of its construction labor and purchased materials from Nashville and local areas.It is easy to see that this is a great escape spot.There is just to much to soak up in one visit.This has been an amazing day.We are very happy to head back to the SeaHawk, take Brady for a walk.

Opry Star mail boxes

Stars here only

Dressing room with a pic of a fresh young Willie (lower left corner)

Stars a born? mmmm ?

inside the Gaylord hotel ( My pictures just didn't do this place a second of justice.  Trust me it is amazing)

In house radio station

Day two is much more relaxed.We head downtown to go on our own walking tour.We revisiting music row, the Parthenon, BicentennialPark and had a nice stop at the Farmers Market.The 5K I mentioned earlier also went around the occupy Nashville crowd.I was happy to here that Nashville has been the first city that has been smart enough to enforce a curfew to manage these vagrants.Now it is time to truly experience the great culture of this amazing town.We hop in the truck and head down to Cooters place and the General Lee (how many General Lees are out there?).Right next door is the Willie Nelson Museum and gift shop.Cooters is the premiere spot to revisit all of your Dukes of Hazard fantasies and debate the great undercarriages of America.Willie and friends is better then you may think (as a disclosure I am a huge Willie fan {he can do no wrong}).The museum has childhood photos, teenage Willie in his football uniform, Guitars, costumes from Dolly Parton, Buck Owens, Pasty Cline etc.His gold and silver records are there, info in Farm Aid.Willie does not hide his tax problems or his affection for a glaucoma free world.There are sections you can sit in to watch various movies and concert footage.This is a fun and worthwhile and touristy stop. Oh my, am I parched.Right next door is a great country bar.The weather is perfect to sit on the patio and drink a local favorite and mine the classic PBR.Big ol Burgers complete this perfect lazy day. Side note Randy Travis was employed as a dish washer here.

Ahh - we meet again

Les is really excited to learn more about Willie

How do they grow like this?

Bicentenial park

Granite globe floating on a fountain

CCCs of TN

The day is sunny and 78 degrees.It is a perfect day to go to the home of President Andrew Jackson, The Hermitage. You start your tour with your faithful headphones, and a nice museum that covers the history as a working plantation, home, and restoration of the Hermitage.A short movie reminds us of Jacksons childhood as a 13 year old orphan, revolutionary war currier, becoming a lawyer, businessman, slave owner, war hero in 1814 when he took a little trip down the mighty Mississp.Marrying up on the social ladder, and of course his presidency.Even at the end of the blooming season the Hermitage offers all of the grace of gardens and expected elegance of Federal Revival style with Greek influences (no pictures inside).The herb and flower garden surround the family burial site, giving it a very light a hopeful feel.We took a wagon ride to the location of the cotton fields and slave community.The guide shared great stories of the grounds and the work of the people who lived there. The plantation worked because of the efforts of Jacksons slaves.One story is of Alfred born at the Hermitage, worked with the horses and became the first tour guide at the property.Alfred lived at the Hermitage longer then anyone else and purchased many items from the mansion at auction.His home is open on the tour, his funeral was held in the mansion and he is buried near the president.The stories were sad, happy, of survival, family and community.Congratulations to the Ladies of the Hermitage who are saving and preserving this history with honesty.Dinner time is at the “Dinner Bell” a sweet diner with great food and a wait staff with personality to share.A great southern cookin stop.

The Hermitage

Andrew and Rachels Jackson

Alfreds life time home (only the right side though)

Columns added after the fire

It is easy to say we loved Nashville.     

17 OCT 2011